By Christa Seychew
More and more often, after clearing away the dust of construction, new restaurateurs end up waiting (and waiting) for the state liquor authority to approve their license before opening the doors. Sometimes they move forward anyway, instituting a bring-your-own-bottle policy until the permit comes through. From a business perspective, some feel this is a mistake, while others note that after the extensive delve into the red that occurs pre-opening, any income is better than none, and an immediate premiere is necessary.
That sense of community--and communing--is bolstered at Juniper by the bold but warm tones selected for the interior of this spacious, split level beauty. In its previous incarnation the décor was austere and somewhat cold (with the exception of the corner occupied by Tru-teas), but the vibrant color palette, newly revealed wood work and artsy-without-trying-too-hard details give this building a much deserved facelift while serving as an inviting backdrop to the menu.
And the menu is a treat. For any of you tired of seeing the same old sea bass and strip steak everywhere you go, Juniper's menu will put a spring in your step. The read alone provides great pre-dinner conversation, and Chef Elliott has stepped it up a notch by requiring diners to ponder what flavor the juniper berry may impart to the house's honey vinaigrette, or how pumpernickel risotto might add to the protein it supports (in this case it's chicken seasoned with paprika). Such interest may be labeled by some critics as overwrought, but I see choices that are nuanced, largely well-thought and appealing.
On my first visit I planned a multi-course meal in order to experience as much of the menu as possible. I started with a thick, cool "porridge" puree of avocado and corn with a hint of orange zest (of which I would've appreciated in greater quantity). Meanwhile, my companion swooned over his ginger-scented broth, which he thought could not possibly be bettered until the poached egg floating in it burst open and the yolk spread its rich, deep flavor throughout the bowl.
Next up was a slightly heavy three onion tart, whose flavors were right on target, pairing rich pastry, caramelized onions, red grapes and brie. Other offerings include a scallop 'blt' where seared scallops are served with tomato confit, arugala and bacon. I have heard raves from other diners about this dish, in addition to the crispy chicken thighs which feature the subtle caraway flavor of Aquavit and the heady perfume of candied lemon peel. I am very much looking forward to trying both of these options upon my return.
Vegetarians and carnivores alike will approve of the broad entrée selection. Tempeh Shepherd's Pie and paella featuring smoked tofu reside alongside such meaty attractions as Pilate's Bones (lamb shank with farro risotto) and the balsamic braised pot roast. Fish and fowl can be found here as well, pictured in this story is Yellow Hunger, a dish of well-prepared halibut, heirloom tomatoes and turmeric spaetzle served with a radish raita. Additionally, I look forward to this winter's specials menu featuring Chef Elliott's penchant for game.
One of the things held in high esteem by both chefs is the commitment
to featuring local ingredients. Elliott's
dedication requires her to venture to three different farmers markets throughout
the week (Downtown,
Author's Note: New restaurants require time to hone their staff and develop efficient systems. I recommend that people avoid making final decisions about the food or service at an establishment which has been open less than three months. As with any other new restaurant, Juniper is very busy and deserves the time it takes to work any kinks out. Juniper is worthy of our patience.
A recent review I posted on a past story regarding Juniper
"I visited Juniper this Saturday for dinner, with mixed results. Four of us arrived to a busy restaurant about 8:30pm and were lucky to score a table. The service was attentive and drink orders were taken while we perused the menu. To start my brother and his fiancee had the Scallop 'BLT', and I had the Romaine Char salad, both of which were delish, and reported to be pretty good. For our entrees we ordered the Filet, Chicken Budapest, Balsamic glazed Pot Roast, and a Escolar special. My Pot Roast with a plum compote and fingerling potatoes was quite good, my wife enjoyed her escolar as well, and came with a complementary shot. My brothers finace enjoyed her filet as well. The strange part of the whole meal was that her dish never came with any sort of vegetable, and they offer no ala cart sides, so her entree was just filet and mashed potato. My brothers chicken budapest was a 4oz piece of chicken and risotto, no vegetable either, hardly even a actual healthy serving size meal, much less anything else. For $25, a tiny piece of chicken and risotto was not acceptable, we were polite and mentioned it (which we never do), and they comped the $8 salad. More than anything else i'm confused how you can serve entrees without a vegetable, offer no vegetable ala cart, and actually have a list of your fresh produce at each table? Its like you tell people how you like healthy fresh locally grown vegetables, but dont serve any vegetables with your entrees? It was a strange meal to say the least, and with all the great places in Buffalo, I prob will not go back for quite a long time."
I do indeed agree with Christa, the Romaine Char is excellent, and I would no doubt order this again in the future. I wish this place much success and hope they iron out the few issues we had on our visit.