City May 20, 2009 11:22 AM

Lorigo's Meating Place

Lorigo’s Meating Place
I pass by the Meating Place on Grant Street every Saturday on my way to Guercio's (for the last 3 years of my life in Buffalo).  The side of the brick building advertises their custom sausage, and for some reason I assumed it was a wholesale butcher.  Then one day Queenseyes told me that it was open to the public and stocked full of typical grocery supplies as well as some really unique food items.  I wandered in one Saturday to check out the shelves of The Meating Place, and walked away with a grocery sack full of fresh, well-priced produce, including a large sugar cane, which I wasn't sure what to do with, but bought anyway.  A quick Google search produced all sorts of recipes and interesting facts, but my 7 year old and I decided to use the cane as skewers for a sweet and spicy shrimp dish. The sugarcane is not a cloyingly sweet substitute for the ubiquitous bamboo skewer, but does infuse the shrimp with a mild, sweet flavor. 

I went back a couple of days later and bought all sorts of roots which are still sitting on my counter waiting to become part of a stew.  The Meating Place also has a tremendous assortment of bananas including a red variety of banana that had a slight raspberry flavor and green plantains, perfect for frying, but not so perfect for the waistline.

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However, the real treasure I found wasn't in the produce aisle, but behind the meat counter...a butcher.  Here in the heart of the West Side is the rarest, hardest to find person in the food service industry - a real butcher - somebody who understands and practices butchering as an art, not as a job.  The guys behind the counter (and I think it is just guys - one quite cute) will butcher a piece of meat to your exact specifications.  These guys don't open up packages of meat sitting in Styrofoam trays and repack them.  In fact, I didn't see one Styrofoam tray with those little pieces of plastized paper that sops up the liquid.  They cut up a chicken or a rack of ribs or a side of pork to your exact liking.  And happily, they do not sell the packages of meat at a discount that always contain a couple of hidden cuts that you really don't want and end up collecting icicles in your deep freeze for years.  

When my turn came, they seemed to have bypassed the red ticket dispenser in favor of the honor system. I requested soup parts for stock.  The butcher and I stared at each other for a couple of moments, and then I realized he was waiting for me to request specific parts.  I overcame my shock and ordered a back, a couple of wings, a neck, and a thigh for good measure.   This is a far cry from other local meat purveyors who don't sell parts, but in their defense do save their scraps for me.  I also ordered a couple of Delmonico steaks that I grilled that night.  They were beautifully cut on the grain, not too thick, not too thin.  Like any red blooded Italian-American I couldn't pass up the hot sausage seasoned with red pepper and fennel, so I purchased a couple of links as well as some chicken sausage.  Each order was wrapped in white butcher paper and priced very fairly.

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A couple of days after my meat-buying binge, I spoke to proprietor Joseph Lorigo, a 3rd generation grocer and learned about The Meating Place.  This gem of a store is a family owned family-run operation that focuses on one thing: the customer.  The store originated on the East Side of Buffalo and migrated to the West Side in the 1970's.  It has been at its Grant Street location since 1986, and the Lorigos are here to stay.  Although 75% of their business is to the wholesale trade, they are committed to their retail customers.  Over and over, Joseph stressed that the butchers cut everything to order and give their customers exactly what they want, nothing more, nothing less.  The meat counter serves beef, chicken, pork, lamb, veal and goat. Their stock reflects the eclectic neighborhood, so a cook looking to fix a Puerto Rican sofrito, a Dominican habichuelas con dulce, a Somali anjeera, or an Italian bragiole can find everything under one roof.  

The Meating Place is always expanding its offerings of rice and beans, and carries the entire Goya line as well as a full line of Italian cheeses.  They sell Rich products overstock desserts and pass along the savings to their customers with many 'buy one, get one free' deals.  If you can't find what you're looking for, Joseph encourages you to make a special request, and he will try and find your items.

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As if all of that isn't enough, a small factory is attached to the grocery store where 2 cooks make sausages and meatballs.  They sell 4 types of sausage: hot, mild, mild with peppers and onions, and chicken.  The meatball recipe is from Joseph's grandmother.  Although this Italian prefers a blend of beef and pork, the Lorigo's all beef meatballs are delicious with a great texture and flavor.  All in all, the Meating Place is all about great produce, great butchers and great customer service.

Lorigo's Meating Place
185 Grant Street
Buffalo, NY 14213
(716) 885-3623
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I always tell people that this place is real life - no pretentions, no glamour and every racial and national group in Buffalo: Italian, Hispanic, Wasp, recent immigrants from Africa, rich, poor, etc. It's amazing. Also, everyone in there seems happy. It sometimes gets hectic but, through it all, the staff retains their good nature. I like the fact that I can get the exact cut of meat I want, such as extra thick center cut pork chops that I like for braising. But......the owner is Joseph ? I've always called him Vinnie and have never been corrected.

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there are three Lorigo's still working at the store. Jim is the father, Vinnie and Joe are his sons. you don't see Jim much, he works upstairs mostly. Vinnie and Joe run the store, and they are both excellent butchers. it probably is Vinnie you say hello to behind the counter. if you are into pig roasting that's where i get mine. from 20 lbs. to 250 lbs. anything you want they will do there very best to get it for you. great store and great story of another grant st. gem...

replied to fill
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I've been shopping at the Meating Place for 4 or 5 years. The meat is of great quality and I can't say enough about how super the customer service is. Honestly, I can't help but smile every time I walk in there. It can get slightly chaotic, but it's always wonderful.

I favor Guercio's for fruits & veggies, but the butcher counter is one of (if not the?) best in Buffalo.

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fill and rwatkins....i couldn't agree with you more. The butcher counter is both affordable and serves at a high quality

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I can't believe that you picked up the sugar cane. I saw those, but had no idea what do do with them. We get a block of cheese strips there for our submarine sandwiches. It's a beautiful building too. Kind of quirky display windows with Count Chocula cereal boxes on one side and a mess of DVDs on the other - would love to see the windows on the fourth floor replaced. If they worked just a little bit on fixing up the window displays, I bet they would get a lot of new customers. All in all this place is excellent.

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Love Lorigo's! Always reminds me of New York. I can always find any cut I want here--and if for some bizarre reason it's not in the case, they'll find a way to turn a larger cut into just what I'm looking for in minutes. They are a homecook's blessing in our very butcher-less city.

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Lets not turn too many people onto the meating place. I really don't want to stand on a real long line to get meat!!! I ordered a crown roast of pork for New Years Eve and they didn't make it up until I was there so I could approve the pork. The roast was almost 8 pounds and with the rest of the groceries I picked up it was less than 30 bucks. You can't beat it. Ummmm I mean that place isn't that good. Seriously It's another Buffalo gem.

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Excellent joint. Now, about that awning...

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This is a great place. I've stopped by several times when I've been in town. What's up with the top 2 floors of the building? Looks like the third floor is storage. Anybody living on the second floor?

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Queenseye...of course I bought the sugarcane. You were the one who pointed it out to me. I just recently bought some bamboo like stick at Tops on Niagara. I am trying to identify it so I can cook it. Will keep you posted.

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Lorigo's is excellent and is usually really busy. QE, a story about Zarcones could do a lot of good for this small, family run butcher shop just a few blocks down the road...not nearly as busy.

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I have been a customer for over 30 years, best prices, and quality around. And most important customer service is the best. Jim and his sons, Vinnie and Joey are just amazing, always aiming to please. If you need help on which cut of meat to buy, or how much of a meat you need for a party or a meal, they have even have given me great cooking receipes. They will go out of their way to order any specialty item you might need. I recommend them to everyone. It isn't Saturday until I go to... the Meating Place. Angie

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As an Argentinian living in Buffalo I´m grateful to Vince Lorigo who graciously cuts the spare ribs "hotel! style, just as they are cut in my country.

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