Sometimes dining is a matter of staunching hunger, while at other times it's a journey in search of an elusive taste. Satisfaction, in the latter case, is a matter of hitting the taste sensors just right, and dining at Tabree takes care of that on many different levels.
After a quick tour outside with partner-owner Bryan Bryndle, I was semi-reluctant to be coaxed back inside to my window seat and my evening's companion; it felt like leaving the party early. Truth be told, every bit of Tabree has a celebratory feel, each with its own merits. While Bryndle is responsible for the culinary aspects of Tabree, his partner of 6 years, Tara DeJoseph is the mastermind behind the ambiance, and it is here, on the patio that the two will wed at the end of this month.
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There's big city ambience in Tabree's economy of indoor space. The cozy window nook, the long dining room, and the bar that fills up with all ages of urban types 3 times per night, makes the tight quarters intimate, but with a community feel.
The outdoor patio is a dream. Roofed and outfitted with an oriental carpet and heat throwers, it's a little bit of paradise. The sides of the space roll up and down in accordance with the weather, but on the rainy night I was there, the red brick of the surrounding buildings was a deep, wet red, and the fragrance of new spring greens growing all around the patio was intoxicating.
After a quick tour outside with partner-owner Bryan Bryndle, I was semi-reluctant to be coaxed back inside to my window seat and my evening's companion; it felt like leaving the party early. Truth be told, every bit of Tabree has a celebratory feel, each with its own merits. While Bryndle is responsible for the culinary aspects of Tabree, his partner of 6 years, Tara DeJoseph is the mastermind behind the ambiance, and it is here, on the patio that the two will wed at the end of this month. 
Bryndle lends so much personality to the restaurant; he's a highly credentialed chef and an ex-bartender, so he knows how to "bring it" as fine or casual as his patrons like. Bryndle and DeJoseph have worked hard to make Tabree a place that is not "a birthday restaurant," meaning that neither the ambience or pricing warrant an excuse to go there. I would tell you to go there because I say so, but once you get a look at what Tabree has to offer, no directives are necessary. The menu is enticing, the comfort just right.
Describing what he does at Tabree, Bryndle uses my keywords when he says, "This is big city food. I can't reinvent the wheel, but I can present with some flair." Now on his 3rd menu since opening one year ago, Bryndle relies on local food sources when he can and brings the best of imported foods when he needs that extra punch outside of local availabilities.
Bryndle credits Chef Kristina Daley with "executing the menu she helped to influence flawlessly, and running a militant kitchen." These sometimes labor-intense dishes have to take a fair amount of discipline, and it's good that Bryndle has Daley's mettle to rely on.
We started off with a delightful cocktail made with Taittinger champagne and rose port (top image), topped with a raspberry and named so as to make one go as pink as the drink when forced to say, "I'll have the French Panty." On a warm day, this is one quaff that will wear well. Light and tangy with a touch of the sweet, it could be the sip of summer we were looking for. The champagne has a citrusy flavor, and Bryndle uses it almost as liberally in the kitchen as he does at the bar. Not a bad flavor theme it seems, among his vast retinue of French wines and beers. Bryndle's years behind a bar serve us all well on that count, with the shelf set higher up.
My first taste was Grilled Squid set on white bean puree with Belgian endive and sun-dried tomato. The squid was tender and tasty, and together with the earthy bean, tangy tomato and slight crunch of the endive, it created a unique mixture of textures and tastes that were new to me. I've enjoyed a lot of squid, but never like this, and Bryndle's innovation was a nice twist.
Next, we had Frisee Salad with Lardons, a poached egg cupped in crispy pancetta over a bed of greens and arugula. "Wouldn't that be the perfect breakfast?" Bryndle asked, breezing by. My thought was "perfect anything," but my mouth was too full to say so. It paired nicely with a 2004 Simon Bize Bourgogne Chardonnay.
My companion had the Maine Diver Scallops. They were served over a celery root and fine herb puree with grilled asparagus and a blueberry and vanilla bean drizzle. The top garnish is a frizzled leek, julienned and flash fried. Though I didn't taste, I am told it was "heavenly". She would know.
A lover of vegetables, the Beet Stack was a delightful surprise of beet slices sandwiching goat cheese, candied walnuts, field greens and grilled asparagus. Again, this was a never before and ever again treat; artful and fresh, I will look for it every time I return to Tabree.
Ding! Frites are upscale. These are made of hand-cut Yukon gold potatoes, shocked in ice water and then blanched in 225-degree peanut oil. Next they are set on sheets, cooked at high heat and finished with truffle salt. The frites are served Belgian-style, with mayonnaise. Remember these this summer; a seat at the bar or on the beautiful back patio with a famous Tabree sliced duck sandwich and these fries puts a deliciously decadent twist on a an old classic.
The handmade Ravioli was filled with goat cheese and sun dried tomato, then topped with tender, young, sauteed spinach. The pasta had a perfect tooth, and the filling was creamy good. Bryndle was on his way past - he greets and says goodbye to each customer - when he stopped to suggest a wine. He picked a Domaine Des Coccinelles Cote du Rhone that was medium-bodied with a nice hint of cherry, but an earthy quality too. Perfect.
My companion also enjoyed the Pan Seared Long Island Duck. It was served with a trio of peas (sweet, snow and roasted snap), over a bed of creamy parmisan polenta with a wild mushroom sauce. The taste of duck I snuck was tender and juicy, the polenta creamy perfection. And frankly, the wild mushroom sauce was an earthy knock-out in this flavor combination.
Though it would seem we would wave the dessert menu aside after this meal, the idea that we would miss something if we didn't at least look nagged us, so we indulged. In fact, we started with the thought of sharing one dessert and decided to split two instead. Never turn down French pastry, I say. The Profiteroles were cream puff shells, filled with house made vanilla bean ice cream and drizzled with chocolate. Surprisingly light for homemade ice cream, it was no feat to finish.
Lastly, came the Lemon Chiffon Tart with blueberry sauce and an almond crust. It pushed our limits, but still, we ate for flavor. Every last bit. Bryndle was on his way past again, when I hailed him to ask about the music. It got pumped up a little bit as the night grew, and Bryndle explained that it was club music from the Hotel Costes by Stephane Pompaugnac; it was the perfect accompaniment to a great evening in a wonderful French restaurant in Buffalo, NY.
Shortly after their wedding, the Bryndles will be opening Tabree for summer lunches from 11:30 to 3PM daily - another good excuse to visit the slickest patio in town.
Tabree is not just about big city food and a good hang; it's the new guard in French cuisine in town. Filling evening tables at 6 and 9 and again around 10:30, I predict Bryan and Tara will grow out of this space soon. Pointing to the ceiling, Bryan says, "It would be nice if we could expand up to the 2nd floor." Think fast, Bryan and Tara; up sounds right. You've got a lot more business to do in this town.
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423 Elmwood Avenue
Buffalo, NY 14222
716.844.8477
I've eaten at Tabree a handful of times, sampling different wines, first courses and entrees, and also celebrated my birthday at the bar with friends. I can't get enough of this place. Between the food, intimate ambience, courteous wait staff, and Bryan and Tara's attention to detail, Tabree offers everything I love about fine dining, without the airs and graces that are commonplace at so many of WNY's upscale restaurants.