As a full-blooded, first-generation Siciliana, when I go to an Italian restaurant, food is only a part of what I look for. I want comfort, familiarity, easy eleganza and food I might not make myself, but that which brings back memories or makes entirely new ones.
And then there's that something else. My sister-in-law's parents, Ann and Rudy Casarsa would have me to dinner in their home occasionally when I first moved to Buffalo. Ann always set a lovely table, and she introduced me to Northern Italian cuisine that was beyond my own family's traditional fare.
One Sunday at the table, while we all ate, Rudy put his fork down and smacked his lips disapprovingly. "Ann," he said, "something is missing here. I'm not tasting the love."
The rest of us paused over our plates.
"You're right," Ann sighed, "I wasn't in a very good mood today." So, it's true; there is a special quality to food made with love, and Rudy noted its absence.
Ristorante Lombardo was a labor of love of sorts; an endeavor of owner Tommy Lombardo and his late father, also Tom. The elder Lombardo owned The Little Club on the 700 block of Main Street, between Tupper and Goodell, moving to the Hertel location in 1975. Tommy was a mere 21 back then, but what he's helped to make, sustain and grow in that time is one of the most successful and superb restaurants, Italian or otherwise, in all of this city.
Tommy greeted me and my dinner companion with his beaming smile, and led us to our table. Our waiter, Patrick Knab, brought us a tried-and-true Justin Syrah that my companion favors, and we were on our way. Lombardo's has a large wine selection, with 20 varieties available by the glass. Wine is also served in quartinos, allowing the diner to pour, aerate and swirl at will.
Chef Chris Salvati introduced himself. He has been with Ristorante Lombardo for eight years, since he was 19. Eight years. Trained at the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute, he mentored at Lombardo's under Tom Argiro, who then busied himself with other details, leaving Salvati in full reign of the kitchen--a task the young man took up and ran with. He creates dishes with his own twist, based on regional/modern classics. Apparently, Argiro knew a ringer when he saw one.
The first course was the Handmade Ossobuco Ravioli, with braised and shredded veal shank and ricotta filling. Salvati extracts the marrow from the shank and blends it with along with the braising liquid and chunky fresh tomato, for a sauce both rich and fresh. Topped with a gremolata of parsley, lemon zest and garlic, the pasta was at its al dente best and quite a treat.
The next course had a home feel to it, Spicy Sausage with Porcini Mushrooms and Gorgonzola Stuffed Gnocchi. The savory mushrooms, slight heat of the sausage and subtle bite of the creamy gorgonzola was divine. The ingredients were not so unusual, but the combination was nothing less than exotic. There was a sweet flavor my guest and I struggled to identify; he guessed coriander at one point, but Salvati told us it was fennel, Madeira and raisin--along with the coriander. Clever.
Next, we had Pan Seared Halibut with a maple/mustard glaze. It was served over a bed of Brussels sprouts, spinach and wild mushrooms. The halibut was flaky inside, and the outer crust had just the right crunch and sweetness from the glaze. I've never met a mushroom I didn't love, and the earthy quality, combined with the tender greens was truly out of this world--my favorite dish, and "pretty" as my companion described it.
Our last dish was Grilled Black Angus with Roasted Campari tomatoes, crusted with breadcrumbs and cheese, and topped with a big dollop of arugula butter. I haven't personally been much of a beef eater recently, but aside from the fact that I'll eat just about anything with butter on it, this 100 percent organic beef was the tastiest and most tender I've had in years.
Patrick brought us slices of Frou-Frou Cake and Ricotta Cake for dessert. Sous Chef Michael Obarka makes all of the desserts, and they are splendid. The Frou-Frou is a classic that, according to Salvati "has been here forever." A white genoise cake, it was as light as its name and not too sweet. The Ricotta Cake is just what it sounds like, and made with honey. Topped with cranberry orange compote, it gave me one more reason to love all things Italian, but especially ricotta.
Salvati is comfortable in this restaurant, the ambience of which he describes as old school/relaxed. It's slick enough for a nice date, but non-trendy enough to kick back in. We appeal to both crowds," Salvati said. "You can get spaghetti, but you'll get it with Kobe beef meatballs. We make it as good as it can be, and then we make it better."
My guess is that this young chef is as innovative as he is wise and good-natured. He has talent without ego, drive without dire means. Salvati summed it up when he said, "We all like working together here. We're friends in the kitchen and everybody likes what they do here. The turnover rate is zero."
We joined General Manager John Spasiano at the bar where he surprised me with an after dinner wine that rather thrilled me: Barolo Chinato Cocchi. Originally a "medicinal" wine, the grape is infused with quinine bark, rhubarb, gentian flower and spices, including cardamom. It's bitter, fruity and very good.
Salvati
said that staff comes and goes, but they almost always come back. "It's the circle of life
here," he laughed. Indeed,
Lombardo's is a happy place to be--diner or employee; dining room, bar or
kitchen. There's a little bit of
love in everything they do, and Rudy would have to agree--you can taste it.
Apps
$8 to $12
Pastas
$16 - $23 / Half $9 to $23
Entrees
$19 to $35
Desserts
$6 -$6.50
1198 Hertel Avenue
Buffalo, NY, 14216
716.873.4291
Top photo: Tommy Lombardo
Group: Chris Salvati, Mike Obarka and Andrew Giordano
It doesn't get much better than their Ceasar Salad, prepared tableside.