City January 28, 2009 8:57 AM

On (and Off) the Fence

On (and Off) the Fence

By Karen Monaco

During these incessantly gray, spring-is-not-even-close Buffalo winter days, even the staunchest of Queen City advocates will probably admit that at least for a moment, they've wondered if the grass is greener in other cities--if living elsewhere wouldn't be a good, if not great, idea. 

Especially when the grass is not covered in a foot of snow.

I readily admit I have been guilty of having those thoughts.  Twice I actually acted on them, moving to both Western North Carolina and Manhattan, wanting to find out if better weather or the big city would make for a more fulfilling existence.  And while I still remain a proud Elmwood Villager, there are moments--albeit few and far between--that I wonder if I made the right choice.

But it was late this fall on a weekend getaway to my old stomping grounds in New York when I realized that the idea of fleeing my hometown again will remain just that--a distant, errant thought.  It was my Buffalo "aha" Moment.

From the way the trip was going, it was a revelation that I could never have predicted.  I had always loved the palpable energy of the Big Apple, and this particular evening it seemed to be amped up even higher that I remembered.  I was staring down the barrel of my ideal night--reservations at much-buzzed-about restaurant, a pair of Broadway tickets in my pocket, and absolutely nothing on my schedule the next morning that would keep me from staying out as long as I wanted.  In the past, it was weekends like these that made me board the plane back to Buffalo with a heavy heart.

I was hanging with an old high school friend who left Buffalo, but unlike me, had no intention of returning anytime soon.  Annie had rooted herself in Manhattan, flourishing in a career as a television producer at MTV, where I worked as the writer for both her shows.   But don't be fooled by her address--much like myself, she is proud to be a Buffalo native, a fact that no one can dispute seeing as though she has a tattoo of the Grand Island Bridge on her wrist.

We had time to kill, as dinner at an Italian place on the Lower East side wasn't for another hour. So we randomly ducked into a nearby restaurant for a drink without even looking up at its name.  It had a cozy, tropical feel with fresh flowers on tea-lighted tables, an aquarium-sized punch bowl of sangria calling out to us at the end of the bar.

But it isn't the bulging glasses of wine that I'll remember most from that evening; it's the bartender who was wearing a shirt that said "I Left My Heart On Elmwood."  Although I had never actually seen the design before, it had all the makings of a City Love creation, and I knew it was too much of a coincidence.  When we asked where he was from, I wasn't surprised when he said, "Buffalo."  What was surprising was the way he said it.  There was a longing in it. Here was a guy who was living in what many regard as one of the greatest cities on earth, and he was pining for Western New York.

His story was not uncommon; he left in order to find work.  Actually, he was punching the clock at two jobs--one in his chosen career path, and low and behold, this bartending gig that he needed in order to make his lofty rent for his not-so-lofty apartment.  Hmmm. Suddenly, the stinging pain I had felt every month when writing the check for my Upper East Side closet--uh, I mean, apartment--was fresh in my memory.

Soon we were naming all our Buffalo favorites: strolling down Elmwood with a cup of coffee, tailgating at 9AM before a Bills game, Shea's, late night chicken finger subs at Jim's Steakout, Thursday at the Square and the Albright-Knox.

But most of all we talked about the people.  Their heart, their desire to help their neighbors, and of course, their ability to withstand the two most frustrating sports franchises on the planet (but still signing up for season tickets).  The community of Western New York is the secret ingredient that makes Buffalo an irresistible recipe, keeping the once ex-pats coming back for more.

Before we left, our bartender did what any good Buffalo boy would do--he gave us two shots on the house.  We returned the favor by over-tipping, which of course is customary when given free drinks by a hospitable bartender, but our Buffalo brotherhood upped the ante.

As we dashed through the rain to our next stop, I realized that I wasn't crazy or delusional; there are good things about Buffalo, real reasons to stay.   And while there is no denying that Buffalo has its downfalls, it still has plenty of culture and sports and good people to surround myself with, at a price that doesn't involve nearly as much monthly wincing. And so the rest of that night, I soaked up every New York moment, for Buffalo will never, ever be Manhattan.  And I relished every second until our taxi dropped us home.

But this time, when I sat waiting at my LaGuardia gate the next day, my heart didn't sink when I heard over the loudspeaker that the Buffalo flight was ready to board.  I calmly put away my magazine and walked down the jetway, content.

And so I won't be changing area codes anytime soon and my shovel isn't going anywhere.  But in the dead of winter, while I will always yearn for the green tunnel of trees that line my street or the green fields of Delaware Park buried deep under layers of snow, I will not be yearning for the green on the other side of the fence.


Photo: ECB 

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I have been living in the Boston, MA metro area for the past 35 years. When I originally came to Boston to attend Boston University, I could not have gotten away from Buffalo any faster and I did not intend to ever live in Buffalo again. I was full of the same youthful arrogance and condensation towards Buffalo that is often exhibited on BRO by some of its habitually cynical posters. However, if living in a city that has done its best to morph into a Manhattan clone with $2000 a month apartments, $200 a month must-have parking spots if you live in Boston, Brookline or Cambridge, very high automobile insurance rates, a very dense environment and a very unfriendly, cold and surly populous is what you want to deal with by moving to Boston from Buffalo, all in the pursuit of the supposed relief and release from whatever you dislike about Buffalo and the pursuit of whatever you think is "better" than Buffalo then make sure are aware of what I’ve just mentioned and be prepared. If you have a lot of student debt when you start out, I hope you don’t mind having roommates until you’re forty or alternatively living 35 to 50 miles outside the city. You’ll also find that Boston has all the same urban problems that Buffalo (as does every other city in the USA) with its own unique twist on some of them like race relations. Ironically, what I now really like about Buffalo and why I plan to move back in the summer of 2010 is its quality of life. That’s very important once you live past 30, especially if you want to have a family.

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jstraubinger - You posted some very interesting comments. I don't know much about the mid 70s in the City, since I was not alive then, but I'm sure Buffalo was going through some (not-so-good) morphing stages. Most of the people my age (those born in the early 80s) never saw Buffalo in it's glory days or those days when places like Parkside, Downtown, LWS, etc... were not appreciated and taken care of. It seems to me, when blockbusting and "white-flight" was occurring in the 60s and 70s, the city core was not being kept up.

What I can say is that living in The City, knowing what is going on, is very exciting right now. Streets like Hertel, Elmwood, Allen have businesses are thriving. Streets that I'd (we'd) like to see developed (positively) are Grant St Seneca St. and Broadway/Fillmore business district.

But, I'm sure if I lived in Buffalo in the mid 70s and saw the not-so-good stuff going on, I'd probably move too.

replied to jstraubinger
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I'm living the same life that the guy in your story is and can't say I regret it one bit. As much as I'd like to come home every job search for Buffalo, NY turns up: 1. M&T Bank Teller, 2. Geico Clerk 3. Work from home for some shady business. Buffalo can be as wonderful and friendly as a city as there is, but as long as B Brown and crew continue to screw up the city and Albany makes the state less enticing for businesses to come (and stay), people will NEVER move. I don't mean the one or two that we hear all about on BRO, I'm talking about the numbers that give the rest of the country a wake up call and those living in the city a sense of real pride.

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"though she has a tattoo of the Grand Island Bridge on her wrist"

-Stay Classy Buffalo Gals

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Ohh the days are already getting longer. Winter, while here in full force still, is already slowly loosing its grip. At least in my mind.

I welcome the snow, the brightness and the chance to go home tonight and work off a couple hundred calories shoveling. Not because I have to, but because it gives me time to think, maybe meet someone walking by and work up a sweat.


Buffalo winters are a matter of attitude. They are not that cold (we just went through a colder than normal January... and I didn't even notice) and how sunny has it been recently...

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Sbrof, as much as I enjoy southern California, I do miss shoveling snow. Any time I made it back to Buffalo during a snow storm, I relished pulling out the shovel for long hours. I found it a meditative task and the sound-dampening silence of falling snow only made it more so. It's the working man's yoga. I'm glad I'm not the only one who enjoys what everyone else sees as pure drudgery.

replied to Sean Brodfuehrer
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jstraubinger - I couldnt agree with you more, you hit the nail on the head with everything. Experience matters!!!
Every 20 year old thinks the grass is always greener no matter where your raised. After you travel around abit, I think Buffalo has quite a bit to offer.

If you can get a good paying job, I believe Buffalo is one of the hidden jewels left in the entire country. Every American City has something to offer but if you can get paid well, be with your family and friends, and enjoy all the assets in Buffalo...life cant get much better. Every region and city has its positives and negatives but as far as convenience, affordabilty, and ability to raise a family... Buffalo is Tier 1. Our politians have to keep pressing for jobs in the medical corridor/research to industry, green opportunities, and hopefully a strong local construction market with all this proposed development. Go Buffalo!

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spring is just around the corner, even if it doesnt seem like it today.

i've lived all over the place and understand the grass isnt always greener (but i didnt flee to get out of buffalo, rather just to experience other places) with that said, if I didnt have other things going on I would definitely go try Portland. Of course I would probably come home, but right now I'm just getting a little bored with EV being the only option in this city. Sure Hertel has cleaned up between North Park and Parkside (the rest is still a mess, to me atleast) and a few Elmwood businesses have moved over but the mindset of the people is completely different in that neighborhood and with its long blocks and plethora of driveways its not the most walkable place. I havent been to south buffalo in well over a decade. Grant/jefferson/etc are atleast 30 years away, by which time I wont even care anymore. the burbs are just pathetic (well ok kenmore is fine)

Don't get me wrong, i'm not harping, there are pockets of greatness in this city... just not enough to give me a sense of variety. I understand things are changing, but it doesnt seem fast enough, nor does it seem that enough people are onboard. An injection of 100,000 new people into the city would do wonders... unfortunately our politicians refuse to do anything to help that along.

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It took me 2 years of living in Southern California to move back to Buffalo... and i have not yet regretted my decision.
I can work less hours and spend more time on projects and school, pay my rent and bills and still have money to enjoy myself on the weekends... How is this so????

BECAUSE WE LIVE IN BUFFALO!!!!

It is all about quality of life and even though it snows alot and is cold, i feel that you get a much better opportunity to actually enjoy your life here in Buffalo vs. a large city such as NYC where you spend your entire salary on living there and have nothing for yourself.

Go Buffalo!!!!!

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Today, normally warm Austin, Texas woke up to the results of a "winter storm advisory": windshields covered in ice, with no snow on the ground. I saw other tenants of my apartment complex struggle with removing ice using their driver's licenses and credit cards. I pulled a massive ice scraper out from behind the passenger seat, and broke through the frozen surface, the "scruch scruch scruch" sound taking me back home for just a few minutes. I'm not a die-hard Buffalo booster, but I do find myself missing little things, like the sounds of winter; shovels and scrapers scraping, snowblowers rumbling away, plows clearing streets, the "beep beep beep" as the back up ...


I outcommute a short distance to a suburb that is still rapidly growing, despite the recession. The mayor is from Buffalo. The only Italian restaurant in town was founded by a Tonawanda expat, and displays Bills banners among the UT paraphernalia. Buffalonians can be found in the most unlikely of places. Although the Austin area isn't packed with expats like Charlotte or Sarasota, some of us are around, and we're proud of our roots.

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Try living in Nashville. It sort of tricks you. It's so mediocre that you don't want to leave right away, but after 5 years you realized how sucky it really is. People down there also have the worst sense of humor. I think southern hospitality is an urban legend. Thank god for all the transplants living there, they kept me sane. It blows me away when people move from Buffalo to boring cities like Raleigh, Nashville, Memphis, Jacksonville, etc

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Karen - Thanks for capturing what I have begun to feel so strongly of late. Although I'm an ex-pat and cannot move back for many reasons at this time, I miss Buffalo terribly. I too, "Left My Heart on Elmwood." The more places you live, the more you realize you may not ever feel like you are home...until you actually get back to your "real" home. And it stings worse than frostbite this time of year to be so far from my friends and family.

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Dan - I didn't see your post before mine. I'm in Austin too! What's the Italian restaurant you mention? I miss ethnic food that isn't Mexican or Asian! Both great but there's more to it than that, folks! And, the lack of ethnic awareness or pride is very homogenizing and makes everyone a TEXAN...Um, great. Can't I still have some ethnicity to me? :). That and the architecture. Oh, how I miss the architecture...

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Well said, Ms. Monaco!

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Very nice article, and some thoughtful comments. And although it's been said many times, many ways, it worth repeating: if you have a good job, Buffalo is a wonderful place to live, raise a family, and see the world.

With regard to winter - I enjoy the exercise of shoveling snow, but I understand that many people don't. But if you can find a winter activity you enjoy, it's amazing how your perception of the season changes. My wife was born & raised in a warm climate and spent 30 years "hating" Buffalo winters. Five years ago, we took up downhill skiing, and now we ski every weekend. At the end of March we have the same feeling about the passing of winter that many people have about summer as Labor Day approaches. My favorite entry from the bumper sticker contest a few years ago: "Buffalo - where cold meets cool!"

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I tell people all the time when they ask what I am still doing in Buffalo. I simply say.. you only have one home.


If you don't get what that means, there is nothing I can say that would explain is.

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You hit the nail on the head!

replied to Sean Brodfuehrer
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Reminds me of the slogan "It's a Jeep thing; you wouldn't understand." Just substitute Buffalo for Jeep.

replied to Sean Brodfuehrer
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tonyarmani what profession are you in? If you were better educated or specialized you could do anything you want in Buffalo and make good money too. And what really needs to be realized is that its not Buffalo that's the problem. Its the state. Buffalo has the unfortunate distnction of being located in New York with high taxes, inhospitable business environment and yes questionable politicians (sound like Chicago and Washington?). The weather is not a factor. Its much colder in Toronto, Montreal, Minneapolis, St. Paul, Chicago and those cities thrive. Hell, in Minneapolis you have to plug your car in. Just some thoughts.

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"you only have one home", very Buffalo comment indeed...I have admiration for folks who don't throw in the towel, however, and find and make there homes where they can fulfill their eductational potential and see how far the world has come, get a modern perspective and shape new frontiers(humanity needs them). You have any home you choose to make TheREALsbrof. Agreed, if you maintain a good job in Buff, it's easy to make the comments you make (so I assume are not part of the ~30% of the city living technically in poverty).

I've been happy to see the improvements made in Buffalo, over the last 36 years or so, and really think that it's gaining momentum. That's good.

After a month hiatus from this site,it's still the same old desperate call for approval after another (Were good, really we are, look at our pretty buildings, our food is great, Tony Bourdain came here, Labatts employs 40 people here...and so on).

I fault this blog for not challenging itself to take it to another level. You've facilited nice things (dog parks, bike rings, the homecoming, others), but that's easy - learn from your success and go for real impact on WNY. Stop making it Buffalo only, that contradicts your own argument (the city cant survive without the burbs, and vice versa..well maybe vice versa). Have some intitiatives that focus on job creation, on larger than coffee shop businesses that have a success story to promote to the 2million people that read this site. You know you've never talked about Moog and Invitrogen...the two most world class tech outfits in WNY and they have nothing to do with the Medical Corridor.

Do you know what Brown meant when he said he wanted to see Buff a hub of informatics data distribution: news flash folks, that business makes no product (ok, 0's and 1's), is so massively automated it does not need alot of workers...look my point is Moog ad IVGN make real things people buy, Genentech uses IVGN in GI as its strategic suplier or raw materials for therapeutic antibody manufacturing out in San Fran. And I bet almost nobody has heard of it on this webstite. Screw the coffee bars, and start marketing success stories like IVGN....Buffalo needs jobs that pay real money, then all of your arch museums and 10story hotels will be logical.

Till next time,
West Coast Science

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