City January 5, 2009 6:55 AM

Growing Up City #5: Exploration

Growing Up City #5: Exploration
After a bit of a hiatus, I thought I would get back into this series for the new year.  For those who would like to catch up, here are the first 4 installments:


Maybe the greatest asset to a kid growing up in the city is easy access to an amazing diversity of places and things, both city and suburban.  Soon after moving into the city, I began exploring.  At first I traced the streets of my neighborhood on foot and explored hidden nooks and crannies of nearby Delaware Avenue estates.  My friends and I also explored inside many of the large area buildings.  Two of the nearby apartment buildings had small convenience stores where we would buy candy.  These stores were very hidden and must have served the tenants because the average person would never have known they were there.  It is safe to say these stores are long gone.  

I also climbed the rafters of the (now gone) Park Lane restaurant as it was being built.  Its disappearance is a bit bittersweet.  It was a horrible building that made a mockery of Gates Circle, but seeing images of its structure exposed again brought back memories of my early days.  As noted in a previous post I also discovered the wonders of Buffalo State College and its massive library.  What a great gift to a curious kid. 

map-steel.png

As I grew, I was given full access to the city and suburbs via Metro Bus.  At one time I knew every route number and where it went. I traveled to the suburban malls, the Amherst campus (by campus bus service), the East Side, South Buffalo, and more.  I traveled as far south as Wanaka and as far north as Niagara Falls.  I explored the Central Terminal in its final days as a train station and walked the streets of its neighborhood before decline had set in.  I became familiar with every street and building downtown and when Metro Bus could go no further, I pushed on.  I followed Cazenovia Creek well into West Seneca and rode my bike over the Peace Bridge, finding a stone fort that I never knew existed and the elegant vacation homes lining the beaches within view of downtown.  

All of this I did on my own without a car, or even a driver's license (I actually went all the way through college without a driver's license).  I did not count on my parents to bring me places, which taught me self reliance and the ability to plan my own way.  I remember leaving the mall, seeing hoards of kids waiting to be picked up.  I just walked to the bus stop (which by the way was quite a long distance from the mall entry in those days).  Often times I would just walk and walk and walk.  Walking is the best way to learn about a place.  Walking gives you the time and flexibility to really study something.  The city has so much richness of form that walking is the only way to truly appreciate what a treasure the people of Buffalo have.  I have no doubt that we would have a much higher quality built environment in America if we were a culture that embraced walking.  The city taught me that walking was about more that getting someplace.  The same holds true for life as well. 

My urban explorations also provided me a darker lesson.  Every once in a while I would notice a a car with a lone male driver cruising slowly by.  I noticed this a couple times in various places.  I felt like he was focusing his attention on me.  I don't know if it was the same driver or not, but it sent a chill down my spine when it happened.  Once it happened while I was walking past a new police substation in the old Greyhound terminal on Main.  I instantly headed into the police station to inform them of my problem.  The officer was cool to my complaint and asked in a gruff voice "Whadda-ya want me ta do about it?"  To me the answer to the question was obvious, so I just left without a word and headed home.  On TV the police would have rushed out and snagged the guy but this was the real world, and it was a much more complex place.  So, I learned a little street smarts and began to understand that things are not so simple, not so clear cut as good and bad.  I continued to explore and perked up my awareness of what was around me.  This awareness is something that has served me well in many situations throughout my life. 

Next up  Small Town America?   

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I had this H-O scale train set-up in the basement when I was young. I spent hours down there putting together buildings, adding landscaping,  making roads, and configuring track.  It started out as a train layout but, really, the thing that drew me to ... Read More

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I remember walking to Delaware Park as a kid and stopping to look at the Frank Lloyd Wright house near Soldiers Place. Every neighborhood in the city has wonderful things to see.

Nice post.

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Sounds like a bit out of my own upbringing. Once I moved to Riverside and had a collection of friends, we would walk, and walk and walk just to see what we could find. Almost invariably, we would find a new park, building, store or something that would have made the whole trip worth it.


We got bikes, would pick a random direction and then just go, weaving in and out of neighborhood, streets, parking lots, anywhere we could get that was worth exploring. We would ride our bikes to the malls, Mostly the Boulevard and sometimes even the Eastern Hills from Riverside. Took us about 30 minutes on bike to get to the Boulevard from Riverside.


Our explorations of the city and region by walking and biking are the foundation for mine and my friends connection and love of Buffalo. There is beauty and uniqueness everywhere to be found. It is a shame so many people wiz by and never realize it. Whether you like architecture or not getting out and walking \ biking can really grow your appreciation of a place.


I had the attitude about Buffalo for most of my childhood. Stay for now but there isn't anything worth staying here for. I will just move when I am done with school like everyone else. My explorations completely changed my attitude, perspective and love for the city. It is a shame more people don't want to slow down for a day and go for a walk.

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I was a child of the 1970s and 1980s, and where I spent that childhood was in the city's Kensington neighborhood. It was a time when Kensington was considered an afterthought of North Buffalo, rather than the East Side "hood" of today.


Kensington didn't have the interesting nooks and crannies of the West Side. It lacked the strong ethnic identity of most other city neighborhoods. Being on the edge of the city, residents stepped north and east of the city line for many of their day-to-day errands; Northtown Plaza and Boulevard Mall were far closer than the department stores of downtown. The housing stock was mostly uniform; tens of thousands of modest semi-bungalows built between World War I and the Depression, with islands of affluence on Judge's Row and some streets south of Kensington Avenue.


Few tears were shed when Kensington experienced socioeconomic upheaval in the late 1980s and early 1990s, turning from a racially and ethnically integrated community of first-time homebuyers, elderly long-time residents, employees of the city, county, UB, Niagara Mohawk and New York Bell, and graduate students that valued the quiet location, into an economically distressed, primarily African-American neighborhood. The transition of Kensington garnered almost no press coverage or response from City leaders. The nostalgia seen for Jewish North Buffalo, the Polish East Side, the Italian West Side, and pre-gentrification Elmwood Village is non-existent for the Kensington of the recent past.


Still, there were nooks and crannies to explore. Bailey Avenue had a thriving business district, and the side streets were dotted by corner stores. A former quarry turned landfill turned forest was one of the few patches of green in the area, criss-crossed by informal trails and visited by underage teens seeking a spot far from the prying eyes of the law to enjoy a six of Milwaukee's Best. The neighborhood had its characters and institutions; the family of little people that were some of the best ball players to ever grace the fields of McCarthy Park, the drunks occupying the same stools day after day at the Wurzburger Hof or the Midway, the occasional street preacher on Bailey Avenue, the former scandal-plagued mayor who ran a corner store on Dartmouth Avenue, and the Candy Lady of LaSalle Avenue.


The old farts of Buffalo well up when they hear the jingle of a department store that closed decades ago, or think about a nickel cup of coffee at Deco. Who cries for Kensington?

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one of my favorite things to do is to go explore parts of buffalo I haven't been in before. just this morning I went walking around the humboldt parkway area. it's so depressing to me to think about how this used to be just like lincoln, chapin and bidwell parkways. I am a huge fan of the architecture found in the homes of buffalo and it was so sad to see many of the beautiful homes that lined the parkway in the condition that they are in today.

great post.

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Wurzburger Hof and that Candy Shop on Bailey were some of my favorite memories from growing up. I was saddened the day the Hof was demolished... I wanted the sign!!! but alas, a little piece of history and many memories are now lying in a landfill somewhere. I was took young to be able to explore when I grew up on the East Side.

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Very enlightening, Steel - and it's great to see so many others chiming in who enjoy exploring Buffalo on transit and on foot, as I have.


Folks who enjoy exploring and learning about Buffalo and her history and built environment -- and enjoy sharing all that with others -- may want to check out Buffalo Tours docent training. The 2009 class will be forming up in mid February. Details at:

http://www.buffalotours.org/volunteers.html

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Oh! Fish fry at the Wurzburger Hof!

You're right on about the street smarts. I completely agree. What I learned taking the train and buses downtown on my own as a ten year old has only helped to raise my hackles in situations where they should be raised as an adult!

Thanks, Steel for writing this series. I loved growing up in the city (it wasn't that long ago...around U. Heights) and think it's sad when others think they'd be doing their kids a huge disservice by raising them here.

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I'd die to have a lone male driver looking at me.

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Nice job, Steel. Very enjoyable article. Where is the restaurant in the photo at the top of the article?

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Ah yes,
My street days on the elmwood ave strip .1960-1975 . Never a dull moment . Living around brekenridge and elmwood I would need just to walk out the back door to elmwood to look at what was my own little idaho. living behind food town , going to PS # 30 . riding my bike from dawn till dusk in the summer time . my paper route on elmwood ave from bryant to allen street . from richmond ave to deleware ave . we had neighberhood people we would give nicknames too . cigarman,carlos the bum (now called homeless people) he used to lift up the lid on trash cans and scolled the trash .all those nice houses on clevland ave.the old firehouse on cleveland . There was a half way house down the street so there was never a dull moment.one guy wore a motorcyle helmet and a silver parka year round and dig in the trash can by the bus stops ...then the motorcyle gangs haning out @brinks (now merlins)on friday and saturday nights raising all types of hell. I could write a book about it! would you buy it??/...sherman

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A guide to using Metro Rail for pre-teens, published in 1986.

http://www.cyburbia.org/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/21841


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That image was taken on Chippewa back in the day.

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